Appliance Giving You Trouble?

We repair refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, ovens, and ranges & cooktops, along with other major home appliances. If yours isn't listed, mention it when you book.

It depends on the appliance's age, the repair cost, and how often it has broken down. A common rule of thumb: if the repair costs about half the price of a comparable new unit and the appliance is near the end of its typical lifespan, replacing may make more sense. For newer appliances with a single failed part, repair is often the practical choice. We explain what we find so you can decide.

Keep refrigerator door seals clean and tight, and vacuum the coils as the manufacturer recommends. Clean the dryer lint filter every load, wash in cold water when you can, run the dishwasher only when it's full, and avoid opening the oven door while it heats. Appliances in good working order generally use less energy than ones that are struggling.

Yes. Clean the dryer lint filter after every load, wipe washer door gaskets and leave the door ajar, rinse the dishwasher filter monthly, vacuum refrigerator coils, wipe door seals, and keep burners and oven interiors clean. Unplug an appliance before cleaning near its back or underneath, and leave internal repairs to a technician.

Avoid overloading them, keep them level and ventilated, clean filters and seals regularly, and follow the manufacturer's care guide. Book a repair when you notice a small problem, such as odd noises, longer cycles, or leaks, rather than waiting for a breakdown.

Consider a repair visit if it won't drain or spin, leaks, makes grinding or banging noises that leveling doesn't fix, won't fill, trips a breaker, gives off a burning smell, or shows the same error code again after a restart. Unplug it first if you see water or smell burning.

Most often the machine isn't level or the load is unbalanced, so make sure all four feet are firm and redistribute heavy items like towels or bedding. Newer machines also have shipping bolts that must be removed. If it still shakes or walks, worn suspension parts or shock dampers may need professional attention.

Moisture trapped in the door gasket, detergent drawer, or drain filter is the usual cause. Wipe the gasket after use, leave the door open to dry, use only the recommended amount of HE detergent, and run a cleaning cycle with a cleaner made for washers. If the smell keeps coming back, the drain pump filter or drain line may need cleaning or service.

Check that the breaker hasn't tripped (electric dryers use a two-part breaker) and that the lint filter and vent are clear. If it still doesn't heat, a failed heating element, thermal fuse, or gas igniter is a common cause and needs a technician. If you ever smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility.

A clogged lint filter or vent is the most common reason, and a blocked vent is also a fire hazard. Clean the filter every load, clear the vent line, avoid overloading, and check that the vent hose isn't crushed behind the dryer. If drying times are still long, have it inspected.

Start with the basics: scrape (rather than rinse) dishes, don't block the spray arms, clean the filter, and use fresh detergent. Make sure the spray arm holes are clear and the water is hot. If dishes are still dirty or water is left standing, a clogged circulation path, inlet valve, or pump problem may be the cause.

Warning signs include very long cycles, water that doesn't drain, constant running or filling sounds, leaks, and a noticeable jump in your bills. Check the filter and drain for clogs and use the standard cycle. If the symptoms continue, a technician can test the fill valve, drain, and heating components.

An aging bake element, a failing temperature sensor, a weak gas igniter, or a worn door seal can all slow preheating. Look for cracks or blisters on the element and a door seal that's torn or loose. If preheating keeps getting longer, have it checked.

Use an oven thermometer to check accuracy, preheat fully, don't crowd the racks, and rotate pans halfway through cooking. A worn element, faulty sensor, or door that doesn't seal can also cause uneven heat and is worth having looked at.

Wipe spills once the surface is cool. For gas burners, remove the grates and caps, clear the burner ports with a soft brush, and make sure the caps sit flat. For electric coils and glass tops, use cleaners made for them and avoid abrasive pads. If a burner clicks constantly, lights unevenly, or won't heat, it's time for a service visit.

Set the refrigerator to about 37°F (3°C) and the freezer to 0°F (-18°C); food safety guidance is 40°F or below for the refrigerator. Use an appliance thermometer to check, and allow 24 hours after changing a setting.

Dirty condenser coils, a door that isn't sealing, an overstuffed fridge, or a warm kitchen are common reasons. Vacuum the coils, check the door gaskets, and leave room for air to circulate. If it never seems to shut off, or food isn't staying cold, a failing fan, thermostat, or sealed-system problem could be the cause, so book a repair.